Le Lovely Life

MARFA, TEXAS

They might as well call it "magical Marfa", because that's exactly what Marfa felt like... magical. I mean hello, Beyonce made a roadtrip down there! The fact that there's so much in the middle of the desert, slash nowhere is pretty amazing.  The fact that the only major airport is 3 hours away and there's only 1 road into Marfa and that road has the famous Prada installation in the middle of nowhere... amazing. It ended up being one of my favorite trips and loved just taking it all in; the town almost felt like it was a bit stuck in some magical time warp. It's starting to become more and more recognized as a "must visit" spot with boutique hotels and an up and fast-coming food scene. It's starting to become a food mecca and in its own right with an array of different cuisines for such a small town.  Don't let the small town vibes fool you though. Marfa is the home to several fashionable transplants from all over the major cities like LA, NYC and Paris who just never left which is why this is fast becoming an artsy, foodie destination for all things cool.


WHERE TO EAT:

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Food Shark

If you haven't seen the photos of Beyonce and Solange strutting in front of this truck, look it up.  This iconic, retro food truck is serving anything but tacos as the menu is Mediterranean inspired, with a twist of Texas. For example, get the "Marfalafel,” which replaces the traditional pita with warm flour tortillas instead. Grab a seat in the empty bus next to the truck or at the makeshift seating area outside and enjoy a Marfa staple.

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pizza foundation 

Because Marfa is just that cool, many of the restaurants and stores here have been re-purposed from old buildings or other warehouse-type spaces, including this pizza joint. There's no shortage of great food in Marfa but if you're craving some good ole New York style pizza, Pizza Foundation comes pretty damn close.  What used to be an old garage space, this pizza place is prettylarge with an open kitchen so you can see how it's all done while you wait.  Grab a few beers and kick back outside while you enjoy a slice (or pie) of New York in Marfa.

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capri marfa

Originally a military hanger, the owners transformed it into a beautiful restaurant that's stylish, yet casual and laid back. There's a beautiful al fresco dining area for larger parties where you can dine under the vast West Texas skies while enjoying local dishes. The menu here is inspired by everything West Texas, even down to the drinks which can include cactus-infused concoctions. It's also next to the Thunderbird Hotel which is a great visit as well. 

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squeeze marfa

A great spot to pick up some breakfast staples like waffles, oatmeal, and of course fresh juices per the name; Squeeze actually started out as a juice bar and then expanded the menu to food some years after. It's a sweet little cafe spot with a charming patio outside, accented with bright orange chairs. The inside is reminiscent of a cozy kitchen with mismatched tables that just adds to the charm. 


WHERE TO GO:

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EL COSMICO 

El Cosmico is 18 acres of amazing-ness for a number of reasons. The 'hotel' is inspired by the idea that it's important to slow down in life and connect with your surroundings and nature. Call it hippie dippy, surfer culture, whatever you want but they got it right.  All the 'rooms' are in the form of tepees, yurts, trailers, and safari tents sprawled across the vast desert-scape. And these aren't your shabby tepees or trailers, think more glamping than camping. (Also, if it's good enough for Bey, it's good enough for you.) So many instagram-able moments, from the hammocks, to the glowing tepees under the stars, that you'll find it hard to leave here. Oh, there's no wifi except in the main lodge where check-in is and a small storefront selling trinkets and El Cosmico goods. If you don't think this is for you, but still want to experience El Cosmico, the do have a sister annex closer to town where you can rent actual rooms. But if you're going to do El Cosmico, do it right and glamp it outdoors... the Marfa way.

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CHIANTI FOUNDATION

Donald Judd is the mastermind behind this brilliant vision of art-scape and architecture in the middle of nowhere.  Envisioned by acclaimed artist, Donald Judd, who wanted to leave the pretentious art world of New York City behind to find his own oasis, he came to Marfa.  Built in 1979 on an old army base with new sculptures and installations added the following years, The Chianti Foundation is an art lover's oasis. Quiet, calm, and serene, you'll find yourself walking through several abandoned warehouse type structures filled with minimalist metal cubes, concrete sculptures, and of course Dan Flavin's famous fluorescent light fixtures, occupying the entire height and width of 6 buildings on the foundation.  The other New York connection is that Judd enlisted the help of the Dia Art Foundation in Beacon, NY when beginning the project.  Plan to spend a good few hours or the whole day here as it's massive and you'll want to take you're time soaking it all in. Just another cool spot in Marfa, NBD.

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marfa soap factory

Another New Yorker who made the move to Marfa, the owner of this shop hand-makes all her soap bars with natural and quality ingredients. The shop itself is charming with rustic, vintage wooden floors and shelves of glass bottles filled with all different scents and oils on display which makes it feel like an artist studio. The actual studio isn't too far away, as the store is attached to the workshop where the soaps are made.  From Bergamont notes to fresh floral scents, there's a variety of soaps for the liking.  

 


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prada install

You can't mention Marfa, and not think of the iconic pop cultural landmark known as "Prada Marfa". Although it's actually located in the smaller (yes, smaller) neighboring town called Valentine, population 132 people, it's what basically put Marfa on the map. "Opened" in 2005, this faux storefront is located in the middle of nowhere, among tumbleweeds and dirt, and draws in thousands of visitors every year who trek to see what all the fuss is about.  And this is one hype that is not overrated ya'll. Seeing this in person is definitely an experience, and to see it at night under the big Texas night sky is something else. At night the entire store just glows and it's magical to see it surrounded by nothing but the Texas road and darkness. It may not be going anywhere soon as it was always intended to be a permanent install, but the original intent by the artists was that it would slowly decay back into the grounds over the course of several years....


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freda

Blink, and you might miss this gem of a store while driving down 'main street' Marfa. The shop may be small, but the owner makes sure that every part of the shop space is stocked with interesting items from ceramics. jewelry, to apothecary from lesser known labels.  There's a few pieces of clothing to shop as well, and with the space being small, the assortment is tightly curated which means you'll want to buy everything in sight. If you can't make it to Marfa to shop the well curated eye of Freda owner Susannah Lipseydon't worry because she opened a 2nd shop at the Ace Hotel in New Orleans. 



WHERE TO STAY:

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HOTEL SAINT GEORGE

In 2016 Marfa got its first modern, full service luxury hotel in the form of Hotel Saint George. With sleek minimalist interiors awashed in white and grey palettes, Saint George is a design haven for it's culture-seeking guests.  There's an art and design focused book store as well as 2 restaurants, and not to mention the impressive 300 piece art collections from regional artists on display at the hotel so there's no shortage of things to keep the chic travelers coming through the doors company. If the Texas heat gets too hot for you, check out the new editions of the pool and bar across the street. 

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HOTEL PAISANO

Opened in 1930, this is one historic hotel with a Hollywood tie in. This hotel can proudly boast that Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean have been guests here, back in 1955 when the movie Giant was filmed in Marfa.  In keeping with the history and aesthetic of the original hotel, not much has been updated or 'modernized' which adds to the charm of this place.  From the simplicity of the building to the vintage vibe it definitely feels of another time. The have a charming little walkway of small shops to browse for gifts or Giant movie memorabilia, and a nice little outdoor patio to dine or have a drink in. It's not the nicest hotel, but definitely worth a visit for a bit of historic charm.

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THUNDERBIRD HOTEL

I would classify this as a really cool motel turned boutique hotel. Relaxed, casual vibe with a retro feel, this isn't really your full service accommodation type. With only 24 rooms, it's on the smaller side of hotels and sparse in terms of services. If you're looking for a well designed place to come, relax, and be left alone with no frills, then Thunderbird's your place. Check out their neighboring restaurant, Capri, for food and drinks.