Le Lovely Life
 

UPSTATE NEW YORK ( fall/winter edition )

 

Upstate New York is one of those few places that's always good, all year round. The summers are magical with all the gorges, lakes, and hikes to see.  Fall is super gorg with some of the most beautiful fall foliage and scenery in the U.S.. And then the winters are like something straight out of Santa's North Pole with cozy cabins and lodges to stay warm by the fireplace and make smores and hot chocolate. The Hamptons may be where everyone goes for weekend getaways and to 'summer', but the ones who know what's up have all started to travel upstate to avoid the cliche crowds and traffic taking over the Hamptons.  Whether you want complete isolation or a beautiful, scenic retreat, upstate has it all. Here's a few different spots to look into for the fall and winter months...

 

This is a really charming 20 room property located close to Hudson Valley and near Woodstock. I say charming because most of the property is all within the mansion-house including the rooms, restaurant, bar, and common area. However, there are a few larger suites located in separate, smaller buildings on the overall property as well. The house is conveniently located between larger neighboring towns and not too remote as some of the other upstate accommodations I've been to. For instance, there's a small plaza of stores within walking distance of the property including a Rite-Aid and a Chinese take-away place.  I've literally been to places where you had to drive at least 20 mins just to even get to a gas station/store, or to see any signs of other humans.  It just depends what you're in the mood for, but I did really enjoy Hasbrouck.

Love:

the common area is stocked with old school games like Scrabble, Connect Four, and decks of cards to play by the warmly lit fireplace / they have a private hike trail on the property that lead to a pretty little lake to hand out by / the amazing apple cider and donuts every morning (I had way too many) / rooms are super cute and stocked with Kiehl's products (major plus) / in close vicinity of great hikes and areas to explore like the Mohonk area / outdoor firepits / outdoor pool in the summertime

Meh:

depending on when you go, the rooms can be a little pricey / it's located right next to a strip mall and off a main road vs being tucked away in the mountains somewhere / the restaurant was okay food-wise

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eat: butterfield

Butterfield is the restaurant located on the property.  The vibe is cozy and warm with a farm-to-table menu sourcing local ingredients from the Hudson Valley area. For me the draw here is the convenience, especially when it’s snowing, since it’s part of the hotel. The food is okay, not amazing, but the plating presentation is pretty. Come for a meal but stay for the coziness and ambience. Grab a drink at the bar afterwards, and then unwind by playing some board games in the game next to the restaurant.

 

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eat: mountain brauhaus 

This place is legit soo good. The restaurant, set in the mountains, looks like a large log cabin from the outside. Serving up authentic German food since 1933, Brauhaus offers a large menu of all the classic German dishes: schnitzels, sausages, sauerkraut, and of course pretzels that come with 3 different types of mustards! It's also conveniently located near the Mohonk Mountain area so there's plenty of places nearby to walk off the meal afterward.

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explore: pin oak alley

Okay, this is probably my most favorite find of all my upstate journeys. Like.so.excited. to have found this and to share it. It's literally a long path lined with huge oak trees that looks straight out of The Notebook. It's so, so pretty even though it was basically the start of winter and everything was dead, so I can't imagine what it looks like in the summertime when everything is green and full. My favorite way to get here is starting at the Mohonk Preserve Foothills, which is off this tiny road.  Park your car off to the side and there, you'll find an old stone bridge: walk up and across the bridge away from the Foothills and almost like magic, you'll start to see the beginning of the 'alley'. It's straight up magical. Then at the end of the path, you'll come across this old castle-like structure which creeped me out a bit, but just turn back around and re-walk the path, and all is well again. Can't wait to go back here and see it in the summertime.

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explore: Mohonk preserve FOOTHILLS

The Mohonk area is a large area of land that includes the Mountain House resort, several hiking areas, and then this. This is literally across the (tiny) road from Pin Oak Alley (one of my fav spots upstate) and is just a long winding path that starts at the bottom of the hills. It's a nice, easy flat walk with great views of the Hudson Valley hills and mountains. You'll be able to find it pretty easily because there's an official nature park "Foothills" sign. Off to the side, there's another long grassy path that is parallel to the small road that brought you here, and that's a nice walk too.


The visit to Cedar Lakes was in the dead of winter after a snow storm, so the whole place was pretty much covered in freshly powdered snow, which felt straight out of a storybook fairytale.  That being said, the snow also made it hard to really explore the otherwise large property, 500 acres that is, that consists of multiple cabins and cottages throughout as well as a lake. Cedar Lakes is basically a luxury campground retreat for adults. There's a few different lodging options here based on the number of people and what you're looking for, but we stayed in the Garden suites which had a full sized kitchen and bath. Super charming and cute and loved the layout, especially the remote fireplace. Again, because of the snow, we weren't able to explore most of the property but they do have a barn and garden area where in the spring/summer guests can pick their own product to eat or cook with. How cute!  Location-wise there aren't too many things to do around here, as many of the hikes are a good 30-40 mins drive away, but it is a close drive up from the city, only about an hour and a half. It's actually close to New Jersey as well which is where a few of the food recommendations came up as.

LOVE:

the lodging options are fun and loved the Garden suites with the Smeg refrig! / love the camp-like layout and feel / had a cute guide book in the room of nearby eats and hikes / morning treats of homeade granola and pumpkin bread

MEH

because it's closer to the city, the more well known hikes and trails were farther up north, so a bit of a drive to those / might be a better visit during the summer & fall months rather than dead of winter as much of the property and activities aren't really available during winter

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EAT: QUAKER CREEK STORE

No joke: Bobby Flay and the late Anthony Bourdain have both been to this quaint little Polish joint serving up homemade meats and sausages. Located in what's known as the Black Dirt region in Hudson Valley, this Polish deli/charcuterie serves up their signature kielbasa and homemade pierogies along with other Polish favs.  It's called the Black Dirt region because of the rich soil found here that is great for growing produce. This is definitely a must stop for eats and there's also a small store inside offering Polish food products for purchase.

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EAT: FANNIE'S

Fannie's is located in the small town of Warwick which is about a 20 mins drive from CLE. It's a small, 7-10 table place where you can go to grab breakfast or lunch in the town.  They pride themselves on everything being homemade, including their breads which were really good. The food was great but the service was a bit slow in terms of getting the food out so expect to be there for awhile. Afterwards, take a quick stroll around the town.

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EAT: CAFFE A LA MODE

This place has a laid-back college hangout vibe to it with a large menu of everything from sandwiches to quesadillas. There's all different types of coffees and drink options for you to choose from, as well as a whole section in the back dedicated to ice cream, sundaes, and shakes. 


I really loved it here. It reminded me of a property that had been passed down for generations, where the whole family can come and enjoy year round. It's a gorgeous old school-feeling lodge that has pretty much everything on site. There's only 6 rooms on the property with 2 separate cottages/homes that are available for larger groups. These properties are located within walking distance of the lodge or a quick 2 mins drive further down the road from the main house. We stayed at the Tuckaway Cottage and absolutely loved it. It was the perfect Upstate cabin with classic touches like the large patios, outdoor firepit, spacious kitchen and living area, all on a secluded piece of land. Gorg, and made me so happy! The main house is pretty awesome too as it sits on several acres of land and has a large outdoor area made of up fireplaces and fire pits to hang out, relax, and toast some smores.  And the lodge is just secluded enough but also close enough to larger towns like Woodstock and Phoenicia. Def want to make it a go-to spot every season!

LOVE:

upstairs common area with large screen TV, board games, and a wine/beer bar (!) / private hike trail behind the lodge that leads up to the mountains for the most amazing views / location, location (secluded) / nicest staff / helpful 'exploration guide' can be found in every room for the best eats, explores and hikes in the area / outdoor seating area / cozy, rustic vibes throughout!

MEH

the restaurant is only available for their 7 course tasting menu so the dining is a bit limited if you don't want the tasting menu; they do have some a la carte items but based on availability..otherwise I love it here!

EAT: CUCINA

This place always came up as a recommendation for a must-eat during my stays upstate, even though it would be a 30 mins drive away. It was worth it though. The pastas are great and the flatbread pizzas are delicious as well. 

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EAT: SWEET SUE'S

This is a place that you go upstate for: delicious, homemade, hearty dishes that taste straight out of grandma's kitchen. The pancakes are amazing here; go early for breakfast, as there will most likely be a wait.

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EAT: PHOENICIA DINER

If you go upstate, Phoenicia Diner is deemed as a must, even if just for the insta'. It's an old-school diner nestled at the bottom of the mountains which is pretty, but other than that I wasn't blown away by the food, but agree that it's worth a trip.




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EXPLORE: WINDHAM PATH

This is about a 20 mins drive from Deer Mountain which was nice. Here you'll find a long, winding, flat path that takes you along the bottom of the mountains for an easy walk. Halfway along the path, there's a small creek with a cute little bridge to take you over to the other side. Really charming and scenic.

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EXPLORE: Kaaterskill faLLs

A 2 tier fall, this is one of NY's highest waterfalls and you can view it from two different spots: the bottom or the top. To view it from the top, visit the Kaaterskill Viewing Platform to do a short walk to this amazing platform that overlooks the waterfall. There's also a great little side trail to do, that I love as well. The bottom of the falls can be found along Route 23A where you can park and do a short walk to the fall and then hike up if you want.

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EXPLORE: indian head wilderness

Indian Head refers to a large section of the Catskill Mountains so there's a few trails/areas to cover here. My favorite is to start at the Devil's Tombstone campground which is pictured to the left. Contrary to the creepy name (I have no idea why it's called this), it's actually a gorgeous area surrounded by trees and a little creek. There's several trails you can take from here and it's located right off the beautiful, scenic NY214 route. It's the perfect scenery for what you envision a gorgeous Upstate hike to be. 


In addition to the above accommodations and surrounding areas to eat and explore, there are some amazing places/drives to see the fall leaves or just take in the beauty of nature. Below are some places worth visiting or driving through:

Keene Valley

Keene Valley

Hawk’s Nest/ NYS RT 97

Hawk’s Nest/ NYS RT 97

Bear Mountain Bridge Road Vista Point

Bear Mountain Bridge Road Vista Point

Watkins Glen State Park

Watkins Glen State Park

Cornell University

Cornell University

Cold Spring Apothecary

Cold Spring Apothecary

Palisades Interstate Parkway

Palisades Interstate Parkway

Robert H. Treman State Park

Robert H. Treman State Park

NYS RT 17

NYS RT 17